Line Dance SAL Weeks 4 & 5 - Making Block A

This week and next, we're making our first set of blocks. These blocks take a little while to assemble, so I've given us a catch-up week after both block assembly weeks in case you need a bit of extra time.

The two blocks that make up this pattern are mirror images of each other, so we'll start by making all of block A first.

Test block

Did you cut some extra fabric last week for a test block? I definitely recommend making a test block to see how everything goes together, and to make sure your seam allowance is accurate, so your block ends up at the required 18.5" x 18.5". 

Plus, there are some fun things to make with them if you make matching test blocks for A and B.

Making scrappy blocks

Like I mention in the pattern, you may like to batch piece the blocks, but I recommend making the scrappy versions block by block. Since the fabrics are different in each block, it's easy to get mixed up and end with a "backwards" block accidentally. 

That said, you can batch piece (or chain piece) certain parts of each block even with the scrappy version. For example, add all J1 pieces to the center square at the same time, then all J2 pieces, etc. Just make sure to leave the labels on the pieces so you will remember which one was fabric 1 and which one was fabric 2 in any given block, and always return them to their proper paper plates so nothing gets mixed up (ask me how I know lol).

After mixing up a few blocks in my first sample (the magazine one), I stuck the block label to the center square right from the start this time around, so I always knew which plate to return it to.

Batch-piecing two-colour blocks

If you're making the two-colour version, you can fully batch-piece an entire stack of blocks A in one go.

Here's how: 

1. Lay out all the pieces for one block next to your sewing machine, the way they go together. Like the diagram on page 8, just for block A, not B in this case.
2. Then stack all the pieces for all the blocks A on top of each other. So all K's on top of each other, all J1s, all J2s etc. 
3. Start piecing the sections together stack by stack. Put the stacks of assembled pieces back in their place, and then add the next step to them. You could even do step 1, step 3, and step 4b in one go, then press all of them to lay them back out, and then do step 2, and step 4a, and so on. If you keep them laid out as a full block, it's easy to keep track of what's what.

Block making tips

I have a few tips for making sure these blocks come out looking their very best.

First up, test your seam accuracy. These blocks have lots of seams, so if your seam allowance is off, any inaccuracies accumulate and make your blocks either too large or too small. Use your test block and measure the first unit (that's Fig. 1 on page 6), it should measure 4.5" x 8.5".

Follow the pressing directions. All the seams will nest where they meet, which makes lining up the ribbons much easier.

In steps 6d & 7d, when sewing the strips together, one of the G pieces of ribbon fabric will line up with the B piece across F. To help me line them up properly, I prefer to sew the skinny strip to the middle strip first, and then use it to help me line up the last strip.

Press, don't iron the seams. With long skinny strips, it's easy to warp them with the iron, so pressing up and down only, not sliding the iron on the fabric, helps a lot to avoid that (as does starch, if you like using it).